Avec We still miss the cloches and the gorgeous dessert cart. Then, at Topo, he made creative Mexican fare a white-tablecloth experience. Before the 1960s, the term soul food wasnt used in reference to food. At 1942 West Irving Park Avenue in North Center, Orange Garden is the oldest Chinese restaurant in Chicago. The illustrated menu shows 14 entrees. He also disavowed any special attraction to watermelon. 2020 Chicago magazine / A Chicago Tribune Media Group website. 1906], the Nursery, the Whist Room [pictured below], the Charles Dickens Corner, the Flemish Room, the French Room [pictured above], the Italian Room, the Garden Room, and the Grill Room. Tea-less tea rooms Carhops in fact and fiction Finds of the day: two taverns Dining with a disability The history of the restaurant of the future The food gap All the salad you can eat Find of the day, almost Famous in its day: The Bakery Training department store waitresses Chocolate on the menu Restaurant-ing with the Klan Diet plates Christian restaurant-ing Taste of a decade: 1980s restaurants Higbees Silver Grille Bulgarian restaurants Dining with Diamond Jim Restaurant wear 2016, a recap Holiday banquets for the newsies Multitasking eateries Famous in its day: the Blue Parrot Tea Room A hair in the soup When presidents eat out Spooky restaurants The mysterious Singing Kettle Famous in its day: Aunt Fannys Cabin Faces on the wall Dining for a cause Come as you are The Gables Find of the day: Ifflands Hofbrau-Haus Find of the day: Hancock Tavern menu Cooking with gas Ladies restrooms All you can eat Taste of a decade: 1880s restaurants Anatomy of a corporate restaurant executive Surf n turf Odd restaurant buildings: ducks Dining with the Grahamites Deep fried When coffee was king A fantasy drive-in Farm to table Between courses: masticating with Horace Restaurant-ing with Mildred Pierce Greeting the New Year On the 7th day they feasted Find of the day: Wayside Food Shop Cooking up Thanksgiving Automation, part II: the disappearing kitchen Dining alone Coppas famous walls Image gallery: insulting waitresses Famous in its day: Partridges Find of the day: Mrs. Ks Toll House Tavern Automation, part I: the disappearing server Find of the day: Moodys Diner cookbook To go Pepper mills Little things: butter pats The dining room light and dark Dining at sea Reservations 100 years of quotations Restaurant-ing with Soviet humorists Heroism at lunch Caper sauce at Taylors Shared meals High-volume restaurants: Crook & Duff (etc.) The restaurant made pan-cooked pizza that Inserra claims is responsible for the tradition of Chicago as a deep-dish pizza town. 36. When Joel Findlay died, much too soon, in 2004, Catherine Findlay kept the staff together and operated the restaurant for nearly two more years before selling it, ending a 19-year run. Oprah Winfrey, left, was known to stop by tables at The Eccentric, the restaurant she opened with Rich Melman. It was known for its burgers, hot dogs, and milkshakes. More historic Chicago restaurants Check out these Chicago restaurants outside the Loop that have become part of local history: Pompei (opened in 1909) Valois Cafeteria (opened in 1921) Green Door Tavern (opened in 1921) Margie's Candies (opened in 1921) Dinkel's Bakery (opened in 1922) Manny's Deli (opened in 1942) 4. The name was evidently inspired by the tea rooms location on the 11th floor of the Browning Building, an oddly narrow building for its height, located in the Chicago Loop. Chicago Tribune. 1993-2006 // Evanston Travel back in time to taste a dinner Achatz served to Alinea and Next co-owner Nick Kokonas, which led to the pair teaming up to open Alinea in 2005.Urbis OrbisWhat it was: This Wicker Park coffeehouse opened in a converted warehouse in 1989 and closed less than a decade later, but it was a defining one for the gentrifying neighborhood. (seafood) Unapologetically trapped in time today, the grande dame of the Drake Hotel was ahead of its timeflying in fresh fishyears before the daily catch was de rigueur. Although he sometimes used frozen foods, he said he always revealed that on his menus. Novel at the time for having a techno-spinning DJ in the dining room, Okno was also known for its space-age design and its second-floor bathrooms featuring translucent glass doors that left little mystery of what was happening inside. Vintage menus from some of Chicago's dearly departed restaurants, including The Eccdentric, Gordon and The Cottage, help tell the tale of what made them so great. Shangri-La Reservations became hard to get. Another fish & chips, inc. menu from 1937, for example, offered one appetizer, one soup, and only four entrees. 1997-present // West Loop Trio was the brainchild of proprietor and sommelier Henry Adaniya, who recruited the redoubtable chef team of Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand, and the combination of skill, creativity and utter professionalism was marvelous to behold. The menu could date any time from the opening of the restaurant in 1936 into the 1940s. Sign up to unlock our digital magazines and also receive the latest news, events, offers and partner promotions. Dinners would begin with warm, crusty bread, accompanied by a spreadable blend of olives, sun-dried tomatoes and capers. With his fingers in many pies, Chef Louis was assisted by his wife Sada and a contingent of relatives, not to mention quite of few of his compatriots from Hungary who served in The Bakerys kitchen and dining room (one going so far as to grow his own handlebar mustache). Now no reason was needed at all. Sorry. Swingin at Maxwells Plum Happy holidays, eat well Department store restaurants: Marshall Fields Anatomy of a restaurateur: Don Dickerman Taste of a decade: 1860s restaurants The saga of Alices restaurants The brotherhood of the beefsteak dungeon Famous in its day: Maillards Lets do brunch or not? 1986-present // South Loop and casinos in the 1980s. Tragically, chef Terczak died two years later from a rare liver disease. Thanks for subscribing! What to eat. Dj vu! Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba! While some Northern Blacks slowly accepted soul food, others were more resistant. 12. Despite its storefront location in a run-down neighborhood and no decor to speak of the 25-seat neighborhood restaurant became an instant success. If there were more justice in the world, Savarin would be around still. 10. 1987-present // Lincoln Park However, it didn't adopt "Orange Garden" until 1932. First founded in Ohio in 1980, the 1950s-style restaurant grew quickly, with about 100 locations at its peak. (Franco-Asian) Jimmy Rohr greeted guests at the door, kept the lights low, and played strictly opera music, which made for the most civilized dinner in town. Some of Chicagos Bronzeville residents who held themselves superior to migrants expressed criticism of newcomers food customs, such as eating chitterlings. I was going to go all inside-baseball and say the restaurant I really missed was Mistral, the John Hogan project that never quite got off the ground. (Chicago Tribune ). Le Titi was a beautiful experience, one with all the trappings of formal dining but none of the stuffiness. 1987-present Photos: Chicago Fire season opener at Soldier Field, Chicago Blackhawks lose their 4th straight, falling to the Nashville Predators 3-1, Column: For the Chicago Blackhawks remodel to work, their new house had better be built on a strong foundation, Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information. In 1921, the White Castle burger was invented, and . Cafe Bonaparte Sheraton, Blackstone Hotel, Chicago. With a few exceptions, I dont think the views of critics such as Cleaver are seen as valid now. Interior of Restaurant, c.1895. 12 1924 Orange Garden - North Center. Louis Szathmary's restaurant, The Bakery, opened in Chicago at a time when restaurant going in that city was not a very exciting proposition. Bamboo Inn Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge at 11 N. Clark Street, Chicago. 29. The mid-1970s saw the first signs of gentrification in nearby neighborhoods due to the downtown office revival. Tackle the off-menu "Dick Burger"topped with bacon, egg and hash brownsat Diner Grill, the tiny counter spot in Lakeview.Caf 28What it was: This family-owned spot served well-executed Cuban- and Mexican-inspired fare just off the Irving Park Brown Line stop in Ravenswood for 17 years before closing in 2013. A Chester PA restaurant specialized in oysters in 1910. And there seems to be a renaissance of interest in soul food among Black chefs and restaurateurs who celebrate it as part of a heritage of resilience and creativity under slavery. Fannys Free shipping. 34. Gurnee. Restaurant-ing al fresco A chefs life: Charles Ranhfer The (partial) triumph of the doggie bag Early chains: John R. Thompson Anatomy of a restaurateur: Mary Alletta Crump Laddition: on discrimination Between courses: dining with reds Banqueting at $herrys* Who invented lobster Newberg? 1941-present // River North Phone Dearborn 2673.. Some get accolades for being game changers, some for grandeur, and even a few for kitsch, but all for memorable dining. By 1930, at age 71, her occupation was listed as tea room proprietor, but no longer in the 1940 census. Good eaters: Andy Warhol Birth of the theme restaurant Restaurant-ing with royalty Righting civil wrongs in restaurants Theme restaurants: barns Men only Taste of a decade: restaurants, 1900-1910 Celebrating restaurant cuisine Decor: glass ceilings Between courses: dont sniff the food In the kitchen with Mme Early: black women in restaurants Burger bloat On the menu for 2010 Christmas feasting Todays specials: books on restaurants With haute cuisine for all: Longchamps Restaurant-ing on Thanksgiving High-volume restaurants: Smith & McNells Anatomy of a restaurateur: Dario Toffenetti Between courses: rate this menu You want cheese with that? No doubt it was his loyal staff who made it possible for him to run a restaurant while producing books and copious newspaper and magazine articles, appearing frequently on TV and radio, teaching and lecturing at colleges, and conducting sideline restaurant consulting and cooking school businesses [shown above training waiters]. Thanks to Gary Allen, author, food blogger, and researcher extraordinaire, I now know more about the proprietor of Chicagos 11th Heaven Tea Room. Between courses: mystery food Ode to franchises of yesteryear Chuck wagon-ing Taste of a decade: 1940s restaurants Just cause it looks bad doesnt mean its good The other Delmonicos Between courses: Beard at Lucky Pierres Basic fare: spaghetti Famous in its day: The Maramor Between courses: wheres my butter? A Chicago institution since 1941, Gene & Georgetti is beloved for their traditional Italian dishes (like chicken vesuvio, eggplant parmesan, and homemade lasagna on the weekends) and, of course, their huge and flavorful steaks. 1965-late 1980s // Lincoln Park (French) A visit to Jovan Trboyevics sanctuary for nouvelle cuisine started with a private elevator ride to the third floorwhere bad behavior would get you tossed out. 1976-1999 // River North Located next to the Ohio House Motel, the 27-seat diner was known for its "Deuces Wild" special, consisting of two pancakes, two eggs, two strips of bacon and two sausages. $2.99. (Thai) Before Arun Sampanthavivat opened this jewel box, we had never tasted elegant Thai food. Restaurant history quiz (In)famous in its day: the Nixons chain The checkered life of a chef Catering to the rich and famous Famous in its day: London Chop House Who invented Caesar salad? This seemed to hold especially true for those higher in social status. Its clever design may have been due to owner Bob Winters background in advertising. It was considered advanced at the time to locate restaurants on top floors so that cooking odors would not drift throughout the building. Pre-1980 RESTAURANT SCENE Chicago Illinois IL AE0066. (American) Some pretty hotsy-totsy chefs have discovered hamburgers lately, but time was when the half-pounder on dark rye and fried onion loaf at Hackneys had no peers. There's a group page on Facebook called "Chicago Restaurants 86 But Not Forgotten." (Cantonese) No one has yet equaled its egg rolls, sweet and sour pork, chicken sub gum chow mein, and pan-fried noodles. Walkers Caf in Wichita KS advertised chitterlings and catfish in 1910. (French) Well, maybe faux French, but the flower-bedecked courtyard was incredibly popular with the Ladies Who Lunch long before the phrase was coined. As the massively solid Pullman Building was under construction on Michigan Avenue in Chicago in 1884, a young Adolph Hieronymus was traveling to Chicago from his native Germany. We gathered them from experience, of course, but also from Chicagos voluminous files, avid conversations, and old guidebooks. She lived to be 96. Greg Borzo's new book "Lost Restaurants of Chicago" celebrates departed eateries, from those lingering in recent memory to the nearly forgotten class, from high-end to bizarre, and spots serving everything from standard American fare to ethnic cuisine. Jimmys Place A wicker basket crammed with goodies cloud-soft mini loaves, peppered cornbread, crunchy carrots arrived at the table moments after you sat down at the Gold Coast restaurant. Star Top Cafe wasn't for everybody, but I loved the joint. Chicagoans were sharply divided into lovers and haters. The Eccentric, a Rich Melman creation with you-know-who as its most visible partner, opened in 1989 with Michael Kornick as chef (succeeded by Jody Denton) and had a very respectable six-year run in River North. Gentrification and the occasional rat sighting (whoops!) Beef Steaks. Elijah Muhammad denounced soul food as a legacy of slavery that should be decisively rejected. Most soul food histories note that some prominent Black leaders have rejected soul food, pointing to Eldridge Cleaver of the Black Panthers and Nation of Islam leader Elijah Muhammad. The first Taste of Chicago (1980) Flickr/Monique Wingard Set up along Michigan Avenue between Tribune Tower and the Wrigley Building, you may have been one of the 250,000 people to first enjoy this one-day event if you lived in Chicago in the 1980's. 1984-present // Gold Coast Ham & eggs by any other name Good eaters: Josephine Hull Name trouble: Aunt Jemimas Reflections on a name: Plantation Dining on a roof Restaurant-ing on wheels Dinner to go Drive-up windows Dining during an epidemic: San Francisco Good eaters: bohemians Dining during an epidemic Fish on Fridays Image gallery: breaded things Lunching in a laboratory Women drinking in restaurants The puzzling St. Paul sandwich New Years Eve at the Latin Quarter Chinese for Christmas Turkeyburgers Themes: bordellos Finds of the day Early bird specials Franchising: Heap Big Beef Bostons automats Coffee and cake saloons Women chefs not wanted Entree from side dish to main dish Anatomy of a restaurateur: Woo Yee Sing Lobster stew at the White Rabbit Restaurants in the family: Doris Day Almost like flying Eye appeal Writing food memoirs Anatomy of a restaurateur: Ruby Foo Soul food restaurants Effects of war on restaurant-ing Behind the scenes at the Splendide Take your Valentine to dinner Lunching at the dime store Square meals Tea rooms for students Christmas dinner in the desert Green Book restaurants Dirty by design Clown themes Basic fare: meat & potatoes Dining with Chiang Yee in Boston Slumming Picturing restaurant food Find of the day: the Double R Coffee House Delicatessing at the Delirama Restaurant design and decoration Dining on a dime Anatomy of a restaurateur: George Rector Catering Dining in a garden Sawdust on the floor Learning to eat (in restaurants) Childrens menus Taste of a decade: the 1830s Check your hat How Americans learned to tip Image gallery: eating in a hat The up-and-down life of a restaurant owner Dressing the female server The Lunch Box, a memoir Crazy for crepes Famous in its day: The Pyramid Dining & wining on New Years Eve High-volume restaurants: Hilltop Steak House Famous in its day: the Public Natatorium Turkey on the menu Getting closer to your food Between courses: secret recipes Find of the day: Aladdin Studio Tiffin Room Americans in Paris: The Chinese Umbrella No smoking! What restaurants do you miss from the 1990s/early 2000s? Nov. 18, 1969. Strawberry Shortcake, 25c More like 1980's; they just operated for a couple of years circa 1982-83. We uncover the best of the city and put it all in an email for you. Bill Ammons, also the pastry chef, patrolled the Lincoln Park dining room with a ready wit, delivered in a gentle drawl. 1982-present // Lake View Mantuano was forced out in late 1999 by his money partners, and the space went through a few name changes before closing for good in 2009. Our newsletter hand-delivers the best bits to your inbox. After a landlord dispute, Mantuano moved the operation to NBC Tower, re-christening it Mantuano's Mediterranean Table, where the chef added whimsical dishes such as flaming ouzo shrimp (his tongue-in-cheek nod to saganaki). Each had its own decorating scheme. Roast Chicken with Dressing No, not the four-star restaurant by Curtis Duffy and Michael Muser, which is still very much alive. (Mediterranean) The trendoids embraced the small plates and communal seating and never looked back. Jerry and Carolyn Buster, who had worked under legendary chef Louis Szathmary at The Bakery, opened this homey suburban restaurant, which oozed country charm. $2.99. Its difficult to find menus from restaurants of the migration periods, but when their advertisements mentioned specialties, they were often similar to dishes in white restaurants. Chicago magazine newsletters have you covered. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. 13. Her first husband had been a confectioner and its possible she had worked with him. 1970-1983 // Old Irving You have to include Barneys! 25. Amidst the steak and potatoes of 1963, its pt, bouillabaisse, Wiener schnitzel, and Viennese tortes stood out as exotic. 31. The building, designed in Moorish Gothic style by architect Harry S. Wheelock, was constructed in 1899 and razed in 1990. When I first moved to Chicago in 1993, our city had just become famous for its music scene. Not much later he boasted that he had the distinction of being fired as a consultant to Restaurant Associates (owner of the Four Seasons) as well as caterer to Playboy founder Hugh Hefner. Somewhat surprisingly, even vegan soul food restaurants can be found now. Early vegetarian restaurants Famous in its day: Blancos Blue plate specials Basic fare: club sandwiches Gossip feeds restaurants Image gallery: business cards Restaurant row At the sign of the . (Mexican) Did Rick Bayless think we had never eaten tacos or enchiladas before? 500 N. Franklin St., River North Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse 14. Taste of a decade: 1980s restaurants Despite an off-and-on economy, the 1980s was a decade in which Americans ate out more often than ever before. Annie M. Chicago, IL; 10 friends By 1931 when the Tip Top Inn restaurant closed, it was regarded as an old-fashioned holdover from a previous era. (Continental) Cognoscenti flocked to Louis Szathmrys quirky storefrontno menu and mismatched everything for beef Wellington and an inexplicable BYO policy. 302 West was one of the finest restaurants the western suburbs ever produced. Three dollars was a steep price for the Depression when this menu was introduced, at least double what a comparable meal would have cost in a moderately-priced good restaurant then. 39. It was a riot, and if you were lucky, you'd catch a glimpse of Winfrey herself; 1989-Me was enthralled. The menu itself was straight-up American; the go-to entree was prime rib, and the signature side was "Oprah's potatoes," which were mashed and jazzed up with horseradish. Rohr passed away in 1999, leaving a wonderful legacy. Bally was was acquired by Hilton Hotels in 1996 and the health club was spun off as an independent company. Access from your Country was disabled by the administrator. She now writes a breakfast column for the Chicago Tribune, and while it's delightful, it's no replacement for the best breakfast spot in town.What's taken its place: A notable new breakfast place hasn't opened since the closing of Ina's, so we'll pick an old standby: Southport Grocery. The Cave, in Old Town, opened shortly after The Bakery. -- Trash, garbage, and waste Americas literary chef The smrgsbord saga Meals along the way Dinner in Miami, Dec. 25, 1936 An early restaurateurs rise & fall Runaway menu prices Thanks so much! Under his management, it became one of Chicagos best restaurants, hosting society figures and professional organizations. circa 1930-1978 // South Shore Whenever I dined here, I always felt cooler than I really was. Those dishes were Barbecued Chicken, Duck, and Squab; Chicken Salad; Club Sandwiches; Sea Foods; and Chili Con Carne (at two restaurants). Trotter's incredible legacy has stretched all across the city, as alumni of his kitchen have opened some of the best restaurants in Chicago. Maison LaFite, they shoot back. "I always had a passion for photography, and I went by Uptown every day, twice a day, actually on my way to and from work. Cafe Bonaparte Sheraton, Blackstone . He declared he was proud that he never served one kiwi fruit.. 1989-present // Gold Coast (Viennese) In the heart of the theatre district, the steadfastly Old World Henricis was known for fine coffee, delectable pastries, and its advertising slogan: No Orchestral Din. Perhaps to attract new customers, Hieronymus created an associated restaurant on the 9th floor called The Black Cat Inn, with somewhat lower prices than the Tip Top Inn and a menu featuring prix fixe meals. (Contemporary American) Paul Kahan put American food through a modern lens and unleashed a sleeping giant. (The building is now a Cheetah Gym. The late Jimmy Rohr, veteran restaurateur and opera devotee, ran this refined, sophisticated restaurant in Avondale. It was said that anyone who worked at the Tip Top could find employment in any restaurant across the country. The first Taste . Wop salad? The building was to be the new headquarters of the Pullman Palace Car Company which manufactured sleeping and dining cars used by major railways. 1942-present // South Loop 2158 reviews. It opened for business in 1924, making it nearly a quarter of a century older than the People's Republic of China. 35. Patrons could order martinis and Jell-o shots at a bar decorated with tinsel, nude murals and Mr. 11. Light on the tongue pizzas, terrific pasta dishes and clever desserts helped Sole Mio to a very nice, nine-year run that ended in 1997. We already have this email. 1898-present // Loop 38. 24. When Tramonto and Gale left, the top toque passed to Shawn McClain (who went on to create Green Zebra and Spring, along with several Las Vegas restaurants), and after that tour of duty, Adaniya reached out to the French Laundry and brought a young chef named Grant Achatz to Chicago. Railways provided employment, churches influenced many people, the heavy industry remained in the city. 8. America's first hamburger served on a bun is said to have debuted in the Windy City in 1917 at a small restaurant called Drexel's Pure Food. Winfield, IL. (E. Jason Wambsgans /. For 23 years running, all hail the chef. Regardless, I echo Ellas messages: may the world treat you right, have a gorgeous appetite, and call again. (Contemporary) In 1987, a young whippersnapper named Charlie Trotter turned an old brownstone into a temple of modern dining. 1978-present // Gold Coast . 21. It was hypnotic. Ambria Dennis Terczak (brother of John) was the original chef at Avanzare (a Streeterville restaurant that almost made this list), and Terczak took that spirit with him to Lincoln Park, where Sole Mio (which he opened with Jennifer Newbury) became a quintessential neighborhood restaurant, chock-full of regulars who enjoyed hefty portions, approachable prices and some of the best Italian cooking in the city. But the restaurant almost certainly did not have all the exotic items available at all times. 1844-1973 // Loop Ella M. Roberts was a hard-working, seasoned businesswoman who had owned her own grocery store as far back as 1910. From Grant Achatz's Alinea and Next to Real Kitchen,. These restaurants were doing something novel at the time, or they hold some kind of nostalgia for us. (steaks) The rolling-cart show of massive cuts of plastic-wrapped prime beef raised the bar on excessive steak consumption from maybe to mandatory. Best of all was brunch, an assortment of American dishes served dim-sum style from wheeled carts a gimmick that would inspire restaurants such as State Bird Provisions in San Francisco. Elis Place for Steak I skipped the obvious choices (Ambria, Charlie Trotter's, Le Francais), recent closings (mk, Tru) and places that I never got to experience personally (The Bakery, Barney's Market Club, Henrici's, Mister Kelly's). Evidently the Trebor Dinner was a specialty menu for complete dinners of multiple courses. If you need Filipino food, like, right now, hit up Chrissy Cambas Laughing Bird.TerragustoWhat it was: BYOB with exceptional pastas, chef/owner Theo Gilberts Terragusto was an immediate hit when it opened in Roscoe Village eight years ago. Report as inappropriate. somehow Busy bees Eat and run, please! (I dubbed them Hogan's Heroes at the time.) Trio (by then renamed Trio Atelier) closed in 2006 after more than 12 years in business. distinguished dining award by Holiday magazine. We're far too young to have firsthand experience, but we still dream of sitting on the chrome stools in the pink neon glow every time we watch Risky Business, when Tom Cruise and Rebecca De Mornay enjoy a bite after some slo-mo CTA shagging.What's taken its place: Still seeking a gastrointestinal lube job at 4am with a side of nostalgia?